Buffalo milk curd with a broth of grilled onions and truffle toast
Update: The Ledbury now has two Michelin stars, and watch this space for announcement of a third.
Broccoli on toast - The Ledbury way
The dining room itself is impressive, a fairly formal but modern layout with long lengths of gauzy fabric swathing the windows. It was almost full which is not bad for a Monday night. However, there is lots of space between tables which I think is important in big ticket restaurants as you don't pay that much to be elbowing the person next to you as they spoon their soup (other restaurants take note).
We had a glass of champagne to toast the occasion (£12 a glass but this was one of those nights that you do not look at prices) and a starter of lavache topped with foie gras was ferried over. We opted to eat off the a la carte menu rather than the degustation and to be honest, three courses essentially became a degustation as so many amuse bouches were proffered. As soon as we had ordered, the next arrived, a delicious chilled courgette soup topped with Parmesan foam. Bread came next and it was very good: sourdough, olive studded wholemeal and ham and onion brioche. So good that I had to almost physically restrain myself from just eating bread for the meal.
On this visit once again we started with champagne and an amuse bouche of a foie gras tartlet. However, instead of dining a la carte we ate a special tasting menu for £65 a head paired with Australian wines from d'Arenberg and Katnook Estate. A true celebration of Australian food and wine!
Our first course was described by the waiter as "broccoli on toast". What arrived was certainly the most sophisticated version of broccoli on toast that I have seen. Buttery soft broccoli stem was dressed with yoghurt and tiny prawns from Falmouth Bay. We drank a dry and crisp 2009 Sauvignon Blanc from Katnook Estates to start off our meal.
Our next course was the highlight of the meal for me. A bowl filled with creamy buffalo milk curd was served and then, at the table a light broth of grilled onions was poured over the curd and served with a square of thick toast topped with earthy, decadent truffles. It was an incredible dish that really captured my imagination and my taste buds. The dish was paired with d'Arenberg's "The Last Ditch" viognier, named because the vines grow in an actual ditch in the d'Arenberg winery and because this was the winemaker, Chester Osborn's, last attempt at growing a grape successfully in the part of the vineyard. The wine was light with a subtle taste of peach, complimenting rather than overwhelming the delicate broth.
For entree, MTV boyfriend had ordered the grilled mackerel served with avocado and shisho. Neither of us were quite sure what shisho was, apparently it is a Japanese herb, one of quite a few Asian references in Graham's modern European menu. I chose the special of a half grilled lobster with gnocchi. There is always a winner and a loser in ordering and my lobster was clearly the superior dish, poor MTV boyfriend it was his birthday and all. The lobster was served minus its shell surrounded by leeks and some pan fired pillows of gnocchi. Everything was skilfully executed and delicious.
We had a glass of champagne to toast the occasion (£12 a glass but this was one of those nights that you do not look at prices) and a starter of lavache topped with foie gras was ferried over. We opted to eat off the a la carte menu rather than the degustation and to be honest, three courses essentially became a degustation as so many amuse bouches were proffered. As soon as we had ordered, the next arrived, a delicious chilled courgette soup topped with Parmesan foam. Bread came next and it was very good: sourdough, olive studded wholemeal and ham and onion brioche. So good that I had to almost physically restrain myself from just eating bread for the meal.
Roast vegetables baked in salt and clay
Our first course was described by the waiter as "broccoli on toast". What arrived was certainly the most sophisticated version of broccoli on toast that I have seen. Buttery soft broccoli stem was dressed with yoghurt and tiny prawns from Falmouth Bay. We drank a dry and crisp 2009 Sauvignon Blanc from Katnook Estates to start off our meal.
Our next course was the highlight of the meal for me. A bowl filled with creamy buffalo milk curd was served and then, at the table a light broth of grilled onions was poured over the curd and served with a square of thick toast topped with earthy, decadent truffles. It was an incredible dish that really captured my imagination and my taste buds. The dish was paired with d'Arenberg's "The Last Ditch" viognier, named because the vines grow in an actual ditch in the d'Arenberg winery and because this was the winemaker, Chester Osborn's, last attempt at growing a grape successfully in the part of the vineyard. The wine was light with a subtle taste of peach, complimenting rather than overwhelming the delicate broth.
For entree, MTV boyfriend had ordered the grilled mackerel served with avocado and shisho. Neither of us were quite sure what shisho was, apparently it is a Japanese herb, one of quite a few Asian references in Graham's modern European menu. I chose the special of a half grilled lobster with gnocchi. There is always a winner and a loser in ordering and my lobster was clearly the superior dish, poor MTV boyfriend it was his birthday and all. The lobster was served minus its shell surrounded by leeks and some pan fired pillows of gnocchi. Everything was skilfully executed and delicious.
Pre-dessert
My main course was equally impressive. It comprised a loin of roe buck deer which was served with wild mushrooms and sweet potato puree. This was a dish with a lot going on, but it all worked. I also appreciated the fact that it was unnecessary to order sides. MTV boyfriend's main was also amazing pairing lamb roasted in balsamic with miso glazed aubergine. Again there were echos of Japan in this take on Nasudengku, but somehow it perfectly complemented the buttery soft lamb.
Given that we clearly had not eaten enough, a 'pre dessert' vanilla panacotta with blackberry granita was served. Slippery and seductive the panacotta was smooth and creamy while the sweetness of the blackberry granita was the perfect foil. To finish I had the date and vanilla tart with cardamon and orange ice cream while MTV boyfriend gamely tackled three mini creme brulees. A lesser man would have been defeated, but it was his birthday and he managed them all. It was such a shame that we were to full to even contemplate the incredible cheese trolley (really the best I have seen) that was wheeled from table to table.
In the kitchen - Brett Graham was away on our most recent visit, shooting in Scotland, some of his spoils were ready to be put to use
The Ledbury just seems to be getting better and better. The food is even more complex and awe inducing, while at the same time not sacrificing flavour. Any small issue I had with service on my last visit was non-existent, the staff were a crack team with fastidious attention to detail. My last visit was on a Monday night, this time visiting on a Friday evening the restaurant had much more buzz about it and a real celebratory atmosphere. For special occasions, or however you can manage to wangle your way there, The Ledbury is a must visit.
Essentials
Details: 127 Ledbury Road, W11 (Notting Hill)
Damage: Budget Breaking (Our bill came to £250). On this visit our bill for five came to $525, however we only paid a corkage charge for some of the special wine Claire and Jo from D'Arenberg and Katnook Estates brought, so that reduced the price.
10/10
Links
If you liked reading this you might be interested in my review of The Ledbury's sister restaurant, The Square or if you are in Notting Hill and looking for a less expensive dining experience try nearby gastro pub The Cow.
13 comments: