2008 in review

I started this blog halfway through 2008 and a lot has happened since then...

1. Best meal in London in 2008: Whole oxtail at Hereford Road. This was something I had never eaten before and I was a complete convert - succulent meat literally falling off the bone to expose the bleached carcass of the tail.

2. Best meal outside London in 2008: Tapas at Nou Manolin in Alicante, Spain as much for the experience as for the quality of the produce used. Perched at the bar, sipping on sangria while munching on croquettes and mini bocadillos of fillet steak and garlic butter, life seemed like it could not get much better.

3. Worst meal in London in 2008: Taberna Etrusca. This mediocre Italian restaurant prepares food without love or even care and worst of all is actually fairly pricey. I am still having disturbed memories of the half cold steak served with congealed cheese on top.

4. Worst meal outside London in 2008: Yolki Palki in Moscow, Russia. In Yolki Palki's favour it was cheap in a city where nothing is. However the fake rooster on the balustrades should have been a giveaway that our meal was not going to be good. The vegetables which were meant to be accompanying my chewy pork were nowhere to be seen and I was left with a bitter taste in my mouth.

5. Cookbook of the year: Ottolenghi: The Cookbook. I love the food at their cafes and now I can try to recreate it from this lavishly produced book from which the recipes actually do work. Check out this amazing recipe for Fresh Berry Tartlets.

6. Total number of posts: 106. Who knew I had so much to say!

7: Most far flung reader: whoever it is who semi regularly checks in from Angola - I salute you.

8. Most disturbing search term used to get to Gourmet Chick: A draw between "Donna Rosa Porn" and "Kinds of Pakistani goats".

On my wish list for 2009:

London Restaurants

Giaconda Dining Room, Soho - once the "two arm" chef has returned for the full menu.

101 Thai Kitchen, Hammersmith - a recommendation from Limster on Chowhound, that I still have not got around to.

Da Aldo, Soho - as recommended by London Eater.

The Fat Duck, Bray - for obvious reasons.

The River Cafe - Hammersmith - again, for obvious reasons.

Lantana cafe, Soho - for a little piece of Australia, and because I have been following the Scrambling Eggs blog about its creation.

The Berkeley, Knightsbridge - for Pret a Portea as recommended by Londonelicious.

Taqueria, Notting Hill - as this is so close to my flat that it is incredibly remiss that I still have not been there.

St John's, Smithfield - for a whole suckling pig (needs to be for a large group and booked in advance!).

Gourmet Travel

Morocco and Iceland

Thanks for reading and here's to more good food in 2009.

Beef and Pork Moussaka

This moussaka recipe is different to the traditional version which uses lamb, instead beef, pork and potatoes are employed to delicious effect. All these different ingredients mean that the Moussaka is somewhat time consuming to make, however it can be prepared in advance. I saved time as I had some leftover roast potatoes in the fridge so I used these rather than the pan fried potatoes and felt great joy from this utilisation of leftovers. I must admit to being the sort of person who always saves leftovers only to have to throw them out a few days later as I still haven't figured out what to do with them.

Ingredients
2 eggplants
Olive oil
1 onion chopped
3 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
2 garlic cloves chopped finely
850g minced pork and beef
1tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1 bay leaf
125ml white wine
500g tomato passata
500g potatoes peeled

Sauce
120g butter
125g plain flour
1 litre warm milk
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1. Slice the eggplants length ways into slices. Sprinkle with salt and leave them in water for 30 mins to draw out any bitter juices.

2. Heat a splash of oil in a saucepan and saute the onion until it is soft and golden. Add the parsley and garlic and cook for another minute.

3. Add the mince and cook over a medium heat until browned. Add the cinnamon, oregano and bay leaf and season with salt and pepper.

4. Add the wine and stir until it is evaporated then add the tomato puree and simmer for 30 mins.

5. Meanwhile slice the potatoes length ways and add a splash of oil to a pan and fry the potatoes in batches until they are golden on both sides and cooked through. (Or if you have some leftover roasted or boiled potatoes just use those instead).

6. Rinse salt from the eggplant and pat dry. Fry in batches in the same pan used for the potatoes until each slice is soft and golden.

7. Preheat the oven to 180C. Arrange half the eggplant over the base of the oven dish. Next add the potatoes in a single layer, then half the mince, then the rest of the eggplant and finally the remainder of the mince.

8. To make the white sauce melt the butter in a saucepan. Whisk in the flour and stir constantly before adding in the warm milk. Once the sauce is smooth add salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg. Spoon sauce over the mince and bake the moussaka for 45 mins until the top is golden.

This is adapted from Tessa Kiros' recipe in Falling Cloudberries.

Top Ten Melbourne Restaurants - Gourmet Chick in Australia

I spent the Christmas period in Ireland not Australia (more on that coming up), but I am a little bit homesick at this time of year for Christmas Australian style with sunshine, beaches and seafood. So I thought I would let you know my top ten restaurants in my hometown of Melbourne just in case anyone has plans to visit this winter (for Australian summer). These are my favourite restaurants, they are not necessarily the flashest or most popular restaurants in Melbourne but they were the ones I returned to time and time again, or they are the ones where I can still remember my meal, bite for bite, because it was so delicious. I have tried to include a mix of restaurants from high end to burger joints.

Hosier Lane, Melbourne

Updated as at November 2010 after a few recent visits to Melbourne where I discovered some places that really needed to be in the top ten.

1. Syracuse. A beautiful old building in the heart of Melbourne's CBD houses this restaurant. To me, Syracuse epitomises Melbourne restaurants with its understated elegance and European style. Eat off the tapas menu and try some of amazing wines from their voluminous wine list. Details: 23 Bank Place, CBD (Ph 03 9670 1777), Reasonable.

2. Cicciolina. You can't book at this bustling Italian restaurant. Just find your way to the bar at the back of the restaurant just off Acland street and have a few glasses of red wine while you wait for a table. It is worth the wait as the pasta is delicious and the desserts appropriately decadent. Details: 130 Acland Street, St Kilda (Ph 03 9525 3333), Reasonable.

3. Vue de Monde. Every detail at Vue de Monde is perfectly executed from the gleaming specialty silverware to the exquisitely presented food. The whole experience of eating at Vue de Monde is great theatre from the attentive service to the open kitchen. Order the degustation menu and put yourself in the hands of a true master as chef Shannon Bennett plays homage to classical French cuisine. This is by far the most expensive restaurant in Melbourne but also the best. Details: Normandy Chambers, 430 Little Collins Street, CBD (Ph 03 9691 3888), Budget breaking.

4. Minh Minh. Victoria street in Melbourne is famous for its cheap but excellent Vietnamese restaurants and Minh Minh is the pick of the bunch. Order a feast of spring rolls, beef salad and Mongolian duck and take advantage of Minh Minh's BYO policy for a fun but budget night out. Details: 94 Victoria street, Richmond (Ph 03 9427 7891), Such a bargain even my mother would approve.

5. Hellenic Republic. The more casual sister restaurant to George Calombrais' The Press Club, Hellenic Republic is a modern take on the traditional Greek banquet style dining restaurant. Fantastic for big groups you will eat until you can eat no more in the casual but funky restaurant. The saganaki is seriously to die for.

Details: 434 Lygon street, Brunswick (Ph 03 9381 1222), Pricey

6. Pelican. This is my favourite breakfast place in Melbourne, however it is equally good for a tapas style menu at nighttime. Located just off the St Kilda esplanade The Pelican is great for people watching with it's outdoor tables and architectural seating. Ask for some of the excellent coffee, freshly squeezed juice and the BLT sandwich. Details: 16 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda (ph 03 9525 5847), Reasonable.

7. Jungle Juice. Tucked away off Hardware lane in Melbourne's CBD Jungle Juice has to be one of the tiniest cafes I have ever been in. Nevertheless, the fresh juices, bagels and club sandwiches are delectable. Try and save room for one of the freshly baked muffins topped with wagon wheels. Only open for breakfast and lunch on weekdays. Details: 20 Centre Place, CBD (Ph 03 9639 8779), Reasonable.

8. Danny's Takeaway. There is ongoing debate in Melbourne as to whether Andrew's Burgers or the burgers at Danny's Takeaway are the best burgers in town. These are the weighty issues that are discussed in a city obsessed with food and sport. My money is on Danny's in Fitzroy. Balls of freshly ground beef are squashed down on a sizzling grill to create truly amazing burgers. Best of all Danny's is open until late at night so you can swing past in a taxi when you are on your way home from a night out and the late night munchies hit. Details: 358-360 St George's Road, North Fitzroy (Ph 03 9481 5847), Such a bargain even my mother would approve.

9. Movida Aqui . My favourite of the Movida outposts is Movida Aqui thanks to its brilliant terrace, vamped up tapas menu and relative ease of getting a table compared to the original Movida. Details: Level 1, 500 Bourke Street, Melbourne CBD (Ph 03 9663 3038), Pricey.

10. Yu.u. A hidden gem of the Melbourne restaurant scene Yu.u serves brilliantly executed Japanese food. Located in a basement restaurant through an unmarked doorway once you find Yu.u you are in for a treat. The set lunch menu is brilliant value, for $15 you get cold soba buckwheat noodles, pickled vegetables, miso, fruit, tea and the dish of the day which could be grilled yakitori chicken or tender beef curry on rice. Bookings for lunch are essential. Details: 137 Flinders Lane, CBD (Ph 03 9639 7073), Reasonable.

For more tips on Melbourne try the following Melbourne based food blogs: Melbourne Gastronome, Melbourne Foodie, Mel: Hot or Not or Tomato.

Taberna Etrusca

In current economic circumstances it is a rarity to have a work Christmas lunch and so it feels mean spirited to complain. However, the food and drink that was served to us at Taberna Etrusca was so dull and listless that I feel it is worth putting it on the record to warn other unsuspecting potential diners.

Taberna Etrusca itself is a charming little restaurant, tucked away in a narrow laneway off Bow churchyard. An outdoor terrace area would be popular in summertime and in winter provides a place for people to bellow into their blackberries between courses. The walls are covered in Ferrari posters and if you try hard enough you can almost imagine that you are in a little trattoria in Italy. That is, until the food arrives.

My entree of marinated fresh salmon with rocket salad and lemon dressing was in reality a piece of not particularly fresh smoked salmon served on some limp rocket leaves. However I was glad I had avoided the soft chicken liver pate with cranberry sauce which looked like Taberna Etrusca had run out of actual pate and picked something up at the last minute at Tesco.

Despite the paper party hats and air of festivity my mood did not improve when my main of grilled Scotch rib-eye steak arrived. I should have been forewarned by the fact that there was no query from our waiter as to how I would like my steak cooked. It just arrived in a somewhat tough medium state, rather cold and topped with a piece of congealed cheese. Roasted Christmas turkey with all the trimmings would perhaps have been a safer option although the turkey was fatty rather than the lean, succulent meat hoped for.

I had the cheese platter for dessert as by this stage I figured this was the safest option. A collection of soft and hard Italian cheeses was served with biscuits and was actually not too bad. Sadly the generally mediocre food was not saved by the famous Italian hospitality. It was made very clear to us that upon finishing our meal we were not to linger over a glass of wine and were to move along straight away. For a restaurant that is so reliant on the City lunch trade, Taberna Etrusca's bah humbug approach is disappointing.

Merry Christmas!

Details: 9-11 Bow Churchyard, London EC4M 9DQ (Ph 020 7248 5552)

Damage: Pricey. Three courses £39

2/10

Slow Food Market

As Saturday was positively balmy by London in December standards, MTV boyfriend and I rode our bikes down to Southbank to check out the Slow Food Market. MTV boyfriend was somewhat bemused by the Slow Food moniker and I explained to him that Slow Food was supposed to the the antithesis of Fast Food. It was food prepared with care as to its provenance in a clean, safe way that does not harm the environment.

The market was smaller than I expected only containing 20 or so stalls, however there was a tempting variety of food on offer as a snack or to take home. One stand was entirely filled with stacks of pungent cheeses while another offered freshly shucked Colchester oysters with a glass of wine.

After much taste testing, I picked up some amazing chutney to take home and we deliberated as to what to have for lunch. We could not resist buying a roast pork roll from the stall which was roasting a whole pig Portuguese style. The aroma was wafting all over the market and the pig had attracted a big queue of customers. The pork was served in a ciabatta with apple sauce and rocket for £4.50. It was my kind of fast food.

If you are in London you can still get to the market today or tomorrow.

Details: Southbank (closest tube Waterloo) London from 20 - 23 December 2008, 12pm - 9pm.

Dawaat

I should have known better. Everyone knows that Brick Lane is the Disneyland of Indian restaurants in London. More for tourists now than serious food lovers it is the sort of place you try to avoid. However the problem is that despite your protests, if you live in London you are going to end up eating Indian on Brick Lane at some stage as the thing about eating out is that it is very often a social sport and so you are not always going to get to choose where your friends wish to eat (despite your best efforts in that regard).

So with a heavy heart I trudged towards Brick Lane and the glowing interior of Dawaat to meet Sully and Morto for a curry. There were some promising signs. Dawaat was quite full on a chilly Wednesday night and what's even more remarkable no one tried to offer us free wine or starters to eat there. The decor was relatively ugly with Bollywood movies playing on repeat on a plasma TV in the corner.

We ordered a round of Kingfishers to begin and some poppadoms as in my mind nothing goes better with a curry than an icy cold beer. Now for the curry. The chef's special of Tawa lamb was served with a creamy tomato based sauce, capsicum and scattered with flaked almonds. It was listless and uninspiring. Undeterred, we made good use of the sauce by mopping it up with Naan bread.

Tandoori chicken was served on a hot plate which had lost its sizzle (pictured). The meat was tasty enough but the Tandoori flavour was not strong and the raw onions it was served on top of only served to confuse us. Sag Aloo comprised soggy and dull spinach. The vegetarian food should be the highlight of an Indian restaurant, but not at Dawaat.

The dessert menu was uninspired and so we asked for the bill. This is where the surprise came, for a mediocre meal and a few beers we were out of pocket £40 each. Mains had been reasonably priced at around £8 each but the high pricing of the side dishes, rice and alcohol allowed Dawaat to lure you in and then sting you. All my suspicions had been confirmed and there is little reason for me ever to return. I remain a Brick Lane pessimist.

Details: 60-62 Brick Lane, Spitalfields E1 6FR (0207 375 3095)
Damage: Pricey
4/10

The Lansdowne

Venison, the favourite food of Henry VIII is back in fashion. On Saturday I sat down to a great hunk of it for as part of an all girls Christmas catch up lunch at The Lansdowne on Primrose Hill and pondered the vagaries of food trends. Of course one of the reasons that venison is once again popular can be attributed to the rise of gastro pubs such as The Lansdowne where urbanites can gather and imagine we are in the countryside and eating the spoils of a recent hunt. In keeping with this atmosphere I swear that some people even had their Labradors with them in the bar at The Lansdowne (and those people were very popular with the girls).

Venison consumption is being championed this Christmas by that 111 year old tome of rural living, Country Life. Given Country Life's target market I suppose this is not surprising, however they make the point that deer numbers are rising to menace stage and so we should all order some venison to assist in keeping the numbers down. Please don't ask why I was reading Country Life. All you need to know was that I followed their advice and ordered a main of braised venison. Spruced up with some juniper and roasted vegetables it was really tender but with gutsy flavours.

The inclusion of venison was characteristic of the menu at The Lansdowne which was peppered with seasonal British food such as cured sea trout, langoustines with mayonnaise and a Gubeen and potato pie. My starter of a beetroot, feta and ruby chard salad topped with scattered pomengrate was just about the perfect winter salad. It was similar to salads I've made myself but the pomengrate was a touch of inspiration and added a sparkle to the whole dish.

I gave in to my chocoholic tendencies for dessert and ordered the pressed chocolate cake with chocolate sauce which was nice and simple (pictured). However, one swiped spoonful of the Pannettone bread and butter pudding told me that it was the star of the dessert menu. The pudding was comforting and stodgy in just the right sort of way. It was hard to stop at just one spoonful and ended up being one of those situations where you are entirely monopolising someone elses food in addition to your own (sorry Sarah). Given that venison is lower in fat than beef and pork I figure that the cake and stolen pudding didn't really count anyway.

Details: 90 Gloucester Avenue, Primrose Hill, NW1 8HX (Ph 0207 483 0409)

Damage: Reasonable (£28.50 for three courses)

7/10

Gourmet Christmas Gift Guide

Struggling for a present for the gourmet in your life? These are my suggestions...

1. For the gourmet guy who has everything, but do they have their own leg of Jamon? A leg of Iberian Shoulder Jamon. 72 Euros. 2. For your very own domestic goddess, your mother, how gorgeous is this vintage patterned Super Stylish Apron £24.99.

3. For your vegetarian friend who you still love even though they don't love meat, a Cooking Course with Ottolenghi. £1204. Pannettone for the unexpected guests, and if they never turn up you can make panettone bread and butter pudding. £15.

5. For your girlfriend who is obsessed with Le Creuset, a Casserole Pot the colour of the sky on a summers day and just to spice it up put a surprise like some nice lingerie inside so she knows that you appreciate her in and out of the kitchen. £71.

6. A ticket in the Menu for Hope a food bloggers fundraising campaign for the UN World Food Program with amazing gourmet prizes. Tickets on Chez Pim for $10 a pop.

7. And remember, for the dedicated gourmet, home made is often best of all and won't cost you a thing.

(All photos from the websites indicated in the links).

The Bull and Last

The. Best. Chips. In. London. Indeed, the chips at the Bull and Last are so good that you are reduced to talking in point form. The secret is the triple cooking. The chips are parboiled, then roughed up so that they can be as crispy as possible, deep fried, roughed up some more and then fried again. The result is chips that are light and fluffy inside, crunchy on the outside and incredibly moreish.

MTV boyfriend and I headed to the Bull and Last in Kentish town for Pete and Thea's engagement drinks. It's a cosy pub with a log fire in one corner and various stuffed animals on the walls. The sort of place you would love to have as your local, especially since it's Gile Coren's local as well. There was no sign of Giles but there was a menu packed with traditional English pub classics that indicated a pub with a real passion for food.

Feeling slightly seedy I could not go past the beer battered haddock which was served with small dishes of mushy peas and tartare along with the famous chips (pictured). It was the perfect hangover cure. Geoff's roast chicken with olive oil mash, leeks, garlic and watercress looked equally good but did suffer from not coming with the chips. When your chips are that good, you should really serve them with every dish. So here's to engagements and triple cooked chips.

Details: 168 Highgate road, Kentish Town, NW51QS (Ph 020 7267 3641)

Damage: Reasonable

8/10

Village East

Village East is a New York Warehouse Style Brasserie Restaurant. This sounds a bit dubious, but the exposed brick walls and high ceilings in Southwark does indeed feel somewhat East Village/Noo Yawk. You must start with a cocktail perched at the bustling front bar. The Pear and Elderflower Collins was sensational and I had to keep reminding myself of its potency to restrain myself from drinking too many before dinner.

The dining room itself is tucked away towards the back of the space and set almost as a stage above it is the open kitchen. Great news if you are stuck for conversation as you can amuse yourself by watching the chefs at work. I was at Village East for Sarah's 30th birthday and so of course, my dinner companions were perfectly entertaining so I tried not to spend too much time transfixed by the kitchen theatre.

The menu is typewritten and is a mix of classics along with some slightly more adventurous dishes. Entree of a salad of slivers of peppered veal, wild mushrooms and figs tossed with Gorgonzola dressing was light but still punchy (pictured). My main of a whole roasted sea bream was doused with smoked paprika, fennel and preserved lemon which cleverly enriched the flavour of the fish while not overwhelming it. MTV boyfriend thought his 9oz Rib eye steak which was served with accompanying peppercorn steak was overcooked. Upon pointing this out to the waiter a fresh steak cooked to perfection was quickly proffered along with additional sides. Well handled indeed by Village East.

We had chocolate cake for the birthday girl but MTV boyfriend could not resist doubling up on the desserts and trying the "Village brulee". Luckily the Village brulee turned out to be a standard creme brulee and it was pronounced to be excellent and definitely up there with the best creme brulees. We could not resist more cocktails to finish off the meal and Village East was quite happy for everyone to linger around until they closed at around 2am making it a perfect venue for a party or celebration.

Details: 171-173 Bermondsey Street, Southwark SE1 3UW (Ph 020 7357 6082)

Damage: Reasonable (Set menu of £29.50 for three courses and sides)

8/10

Raspberry spiked chocolate brownies

These chocolate brownies are deliciously fudgy. The combination of brownies and fresh raspberries makes them even more covetable. Using raspberries rather than the traditional brownie accompaniment of walnuts also means that if you are giving these to children you don't have to worry about any issues with nut allergies. Serve warm as a dessert with ice-cream or cream or, as I have done this year, divide the brownies into noodle boxes, tie with ribbon and you have an irresistible home made gift.

Ingredients
200g dark chocolate chopped
250g butter
1 and 3/4 cups brown sugar
4 eggs
1 and 1/3 cups plain flour
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/3 cup cocoa
1 1/2 cups raspberries

1. Preheat the oven to 180c.

2. Place the chocolate and butter in a saucepan over low heat and stir until melted and lump free. Place in a bowl with the sugar and eggs.

3. Sift in the flour, baking powder and cocoa and mix to combine.

4. Pour into a 23cm greased square or oblong cake/slice tin lined with baking paper.

5. Push the raspberries into the mixture and bake for 30 -35 mins until set.

6. Leave in tin for a few minutes until slightly cooled and then slice.

This recipe is adapted from Donna Hay's Instant Entertaining (yes I admit I am addicted to Donna Hay's books). It is slightly drier than a traditional brownie recipe as the fresh raspberries will add moisture.

Daylesford Organic

Daylesford Organic has just opened a branch in Notting Hill. Barrows of plants and pristine vegetables are arranged at the doorway while inside is a symphony of blond wood and walls lined with copies of Prince Charles' book on gardening and overpriced organic cleaning products. Of course, all of this is a roaring success in Notting Hill and I wonder why Daylesford Organic even bothered with it's Plimlico store prior to heading to such welcoming environs.

Daylesford Organic in Notting Hill boasts a bread bar, larder restaurant and a raw bar which serves only raw food. However Joyce, MTV boyfriend and I head there for breakfast so the only options are cooked rather than raw food (I really don't think I could face anything raw other than say, a fruit salad, prior to 10am in the morning).

The breakfast menu is very limited and both Joyce and I end up ordering off the lunch menu which results in Joyce having the bizarre breakfast of potted shrimp on toast. We started off with freshly squeezed juices and the carob smoothie which was rather grainy for my liking. I ordered the wild mushrooms on toast which the menu promised was served with a hens egg. I felt that this was a conceit on the part of the menu writer as surely that an egg is from a hen is the default position and such additional information as to the type of bird is only necessary when you are dealing with something like quail or duck eggs. That said, the wild mushrooms served on good quality toasted bread with an avocado puree (pictured) were earthy and flavoursome.

MTV boyfriend had the eggs benedict which was served with a day-glo hollandaise sauce and streaky bacon rather than ham. He approved of the streaky bacon but was not such a fan of the average coffee that accompanied his breakfast. We asked for extra toast as Joyce has hollow legs and one course for breakfast is just not enough for her. The toast came with some fantastic jam and marmalade and best of all we were not charged anything extra for it. The food was very good but the limited menu and space cadet attitude of the staff mean that Daylesford Organic won't be replacing my regular breakfast haunts anytime soon.

Details: 208-212 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W112RH (Ph 020 7313 8060)

Damage: Reasonable

6/10

Cheyne Walk Brasserie

What better place for a girly lunch than Cheyne Walk Brasserie, a French Brasserie on the banks of the Thames in Chelsea. Claire had organised lunch so it was essentially compulsory to start off with a glass of champagne as we perched in the upstairs lounge room looking out the large picture windows at the wind whipping along the Thames.

Champagne over and done with, we headed downstairs to the restaurant proper, a light airy room with sky blue leather banquette seating lining the walls. Right in front of the door there is a huge open charcoal grill where a chef was busy searing steaks and grilling spatchcocks. The room was completely full with lots of family groups settling in for a lazy afternoon of food and wine.

The most popular starter by far amongst our all girl table was the char grilled squid salad. Juicy pieces of squid lightly charred on the grill were served on a plate of rocket daubed with pureed avocado. It was sensational and went some way to sating our appetites prior to the arrival of the main courses.

As I had ordered the sirloin steak a warm plate was brought to the table and then the steak arrived separately on the board it had been resting on and the waitress transferred it. Again, use had been made of the charcoal grill and the steak had a brilliant smoky flavour. Sadly it was overcooked although I think the problem was that they had confused my steak with someone else at the table who has asked for theirs medium to well done (horrors!).

It has to be said, that the French do desserts with style and there were an abundance of options on the menu. There was a fabulous tarte tartin that was served at the table in a blaze of alcohol(pictured) and a dainty chocolate fondant filled with silky smooth chocolate sauce. I could not resist the white chocolate and rhubarb souffle. It was served with a tiny jug of hot white chocolate that was poured into the souffle creating a sweet tooth sensation of fluffy souffle, rhubarb chunks and sweet chocolate sauce.

We decided to finish the afternoon in the style it had begun and head upstairs for more champagne only leaving when we belatedly realised that we were the only customers left at Cheyne Walk Brasserie. Bad form perhaps, but the combination of the champagne and the setting was just impossible to leave.

Details: 50 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea SW3 5LR (Ph 0207 376 8787)

Damage: Pricey

8/10

The East Room

Offspring of Milk and Honey, The East Room is accessed through a non-descript and unmarked doorway. The main dining and bar area is a huge space with high ceilings, large windows, bare brick walls, an amazing pressed tin roof and an eclectic collection of art deco style furniture. It all brings to mind a New York warehouse apartment or perhaps a Private Members club Shoreditch style.


Of course, this is what The East Room is. Don't worry though, like Milk and Honey, you don't have to be a member to take advantage of The East Room. Just make a booking for lunch or dinner or turn up before it is too late at night and you are in. Although our group of five were told when booking that we had to vacate our table by 9.30, there was hardly any one else in the place for dinner on a Monday night and so these admonitions were somewhat unnecessary.


There was a bit of consternation when we discovered the wine list, which acted as a place mat. We like our wine and this wine list was very brief on the details. All you got was the variety and the country that the wine was from with no indication as to the winery or even region. Having said that, the bottle of sauvignon blanc that we did order was very nice.


We decided to share a selection of the starters which mainly featured Spanish tapas style dishes. A small plate of bocarones was fantastic - I can't get enough of these salty little fish. Over sized green olives were also popular, although probably the best starter was the large plate of grilled prawns served on a delicious slick of oil that we mopped up with crusty bread.


Continuing in the sharing spirit, three of us decided to share the "Big Fish" as a main. Monday's fish was snapper, served whole in a large tray with a Mediterranean style red sauce, chunks of scalloped potato, grilled peppers and chorizo (pictured). It was sensationally flavoursome and it all felt very homely sharing from the big roasting dish in the middle of the table. It was like you were at a dinner party at a friend's incredibly cool apartment. Other mains of sirloin steak and mutton shank were pronounced to be equally good.


We opted for dessert wine rather than dessert. It was one of those nights which turned out to be slightly more boozy than expected. Despite our reservations about the wine list we decided then and there that at least one of us should become a member. However, on reflection you can still get that feeling of exclusivity by just heading to The East Room for a meal.


Details: 2A Tabernacle Street, Shoreditch, EC2A 4LU (Ph 07000 847876)
Damage: Pricey
7/10

Chicken, pancetta and mushroom stew (Donna Hay: Modern Classics)

There are cook books that you buy that seem to be bursting with fabulous photos and inspiration. You read them, tag them with post-it notes and then sadly rarely use them. Then there are the cook books that, while there is nothing flashy about them, they are splashed with spots of sauce and the pages are dog eared from over use. This is the sort of cook book that Donna Hay's Modern Classics 1 is.

It's the book I frequently turn to whether I want to roast a leg of lamb with a honey and mustard marinade or if I feel like making Vietnamese rice paper rolls. The idea of Modern Classics 1 is that every basic dish is covered no matter how self evident or simple the recipe may appear. There is even a whole page detailing the best way to cook rice. The book only covers, savoury dishes, the follow-up book Modern Classics 2 uses the equivalent approach to desserts and is equally as good.

This recipe for chicken, pancetta and mushroom stew is typical of the recipes in Modern Classics 1. It is a basic recipe but one that packs a punch flavour wise and you could easily see it becoming a staple. The whole stew has a lovely creamy flavour permeated by the subtle flavour of the leeks and tarragon. I adapted the recipe slightly to use sliced pancetta rather than cubed to make the dish lighter.

Ingredients
1.6 kg chicken cut into large pieces with skin removed
Plain flour for coating
1tbsp olive oil
150g pancetta cut into small pieces
2 leeks sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
200g button mushrooms sliced
2.5 cups chicken stock
1 cup white wine
1 cup cream
1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
1 tbsp chopped tarragon
Salt and pepper to season

1. Toss the chicken pieces in flour.

2. Place half of the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add chicken and cook until browned. Remove and set aside.

3. Add the remaining oil to the pan and cook the leeks, garlic and mushrooms until golden. Add the pancetta as well for a brief period when almost done. Remove and set aside.

4. Combine the stock and wine in the pan. Bring to a simmer and return the chicken to the pan and cook, covered for 25 minutes. Add the pancetta, leek, garlic and mushroom mixture, the cream, parsley, tarragon, salt and pepper to the pan and simmer uncovered for a further 10 mins or until reduced and thickened.

5. Serve with potatoes.