It may feel like you have fallen down Alice in Wonderland’s rabbit hole when you eat at Elizir in Essaouira but in actual fact to get there you have to go up a narrow tiled staircase off an alleyway in the medina. The restaurant has a fantastical decor of eclectic junk shop finds ranging from the illuminated mannequins that double as atmospheric lighting to the toy robot gleaming from the windowsill. The quirky furnishings add a playful touch to the rabbit warren of small rooms that make up the restaurant. It really shouldn’t work with the traditional mosaic tiled walls but somehow it does.
Elizir’s chocolate tart is the perfect accompaniment to mop up the remainder of the bottle of wine. Served piping hot and oozing gooey melted chocolate sauce the only blemish was the accompanying coffee ice cream which was too bitter for my tastes.
A meal at Elizir is a holistic, heady experience and quite possibly the best meal you will have in Morocco. You will regret finishing your meal and having to climb back down the stairs and leave the Wonderland.
Details: Rue de Agadir, Essaouira, Morocco (ph 024 472103). Only open in the evenings from 7.30pm.