Yauatcha

Yauatcha shows that dim sum does not have to be daggy. There is not a single dragon painting or lazy susan in sight at the terminally hip Soho restaurant. You descend the stairs to the basement dining room and enter a slick subterranean foodie playground where a huge fish tank lines one wall and the ceiling twinkles with tiny star like lights. Yauatcha is an ex Alan Yau operation after all and so the design and feel of the place is just right. There is even a touch of Wagamama in the low slung seating which is so close that it is almost communal.
I went to Yauatcha with MTV boyfriend, Alice and Liv last week for the first day of the London Restaurant Festival. The festival continues this week and features set price menus from a range of London restaurants. Yauatcha offers a £25 menu which is actually only available at lunchtime of salt and pepper squid, a dim sum platter, crispy duck rolls, gai lan, Singapore noodles and spare ribs in black bean sauce. However, at the early time that I made the booking Yauatcha took the London Restaurant Festival booking for dinner. When the restaurant called to confirm the booking with me the day before they tried to cancel on the festival menu, however eventually they agreed to honour the original booking.
First off the rank are curls of salt and pepper squid which are perfectly crispy with a slight nutty taste. Next, wooden steamer baskets filled with refined dim sum delights. Chinese chive dumplings feature wrappers that are a gorgeous jade green colour and subtly flavoured. The highlight are the scallop shu mai which are picture perfect bundles of juicy scallop, topped with pearls of roe.
After the fabulous dim sum, the crispy duck rolls are a bit of a let down as the shredded duck inside the fat pasty cylinders is dry. We prefer to focus on the dark and just cooked gai lan or chinese broccoli in ginger sauce. Singapore noodles are a nice accompaniment but not a revelation in themselves. The noodles are fried and nestled amongst them are tiny morsels of seafood.
More satisfying are the spare ribs in black bean sauce which have been cooked to the point of caramalisation so that the ribs are sticky and the meat tender. We have reached the end of the menu, however we are still not full and so we order some more of the scallop shu mai and the pork belly. I am not sure whether this is an indictment on the amount of food on the Restaurant Festival menu or just the problem of four large appetites.
Service is not what you expect from a Michelin star restaurant. We only see the sommelier once we have ordered our wine and we have to repeatedly ask for water top ups and more of the dipping sauces which accompany some of the dishes. However, despite the slap dash service the price is still high. As a result of the extra dishes we order and our two bottles of wine our bill ends up being around £50 per head despite the special offer.
The posh dim sum on offer at Yauatcha is excellent but none of the rest of the dishes really blew me away. I did enjoy the atmosphere of the stylish dining space, however I think a better way to sample Yauatcha for a reasonable price would be to order just a few of the dim sum.
Essentials
Details: 15 Broadwick street, Soho W1F ODL (Ph 0207 494 8888) Tube: Oxford Circus
Damage: Pricey
6/10
Links
For Chinese with a difference, try nearby Bar Shu. If you are in the area and just want a fabulous cup of tea and brownie, try Yumchaa.
Yauatcha on Urbanspoon
Posted by: on October 14th, 2009     8 Comments »

Category: Michelin Star, Restaurants - Chinese, Restaurants - High End, W1F
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8 Comments on “Yauatcha”

  1. An American in London said at 10:12 am on October 14th, 2009:

    I think the dim sum at Hakkasan is identical to what’s served at Yauatcha, and bc there always seems to be some issue with the service at Y, I now prefer Hakkasan (if I’m going for high-end dim sum, that is).

    All of which is to say: I’m not surprised that Yauatcha’s service left something to be desired.

  2. Mr Noodles said at 10:43 am on October 14th, 2009:

    I haven’t been to Yauatcha yet. This is partly Hakkasan’s fault as I didn’t enjoy my one dim sum trip there. Granted I am a terrible inverted snob but there was something cold and clinical about the whole experience. Mind you the dim sum was very good but not enough to compensate.

    Having said that the scallop siu mai and the har gau in your photo may change my mind.

  3. Lizzie said at 12:20 pm on October 14th, 2009:

    Who said dim sum was ‘daggy’?

    I think this menu and not being full enough is indicative of Yauatcha being a bit of a rip-off. I had a very forgettable meal there, and the staff were insolent. I won’t be returning.

  4. Niamh said at 2:32 pm on October 14th, 2009:

    What a shame! At least the dim sum was lovely.

    I’ve had tea and patisserie at Yautcha which I really enjoyted and also at their pop up in Battersea some years ago for China in London. I did really enjoy the food then, I must confess.

    I’ve not really had time to discover London Restaurant Week in any depth this year. It’s a shame Yautcha didn’t deliver :(

    Niamhglen

  5. Krista said at 6:04 pm on October 14th, 2009:

    The service at Yauatcha really has me thinking that Michelin doesn’t care so much about the service. Either that, or they think somehow that Yauatcha is 2 or (gasp) 3 stars and have docked it stars for service. Have been numerous times and am never quite impressed!

  6. Helen @ World Foodie Guide said at 8:20 pm on October 15th, 2009:

    I think it’s a combination of going for the London Restaurant Festival ‘special’ menu and the fact that the quality of dim sum and service has been going downhill for a while now. There are still certain dishes that are good, but others that were good a couple of years ago are just about edible now…

  7. Gourmet Chick said at 7:38 am on October 16th, 2009:

    An American in London – I agree that Hakkasan is much better – the same great design and atmosphere but the food and service is superior

    Mr Noodles – if you didn’t enjoy Hakkasan I don’t think you will enjoy Yauatcha

    Lizzie – me! I think places like Royal China are super daggy – they are in a sort of decor time warp. Not saying that is a bad thing, it adds to the charm, but nice to go to a flash yum cha restaurant.

    Niamh – I didn’t try out the cakes at all, but everyone raves for them so maybe they are the thing to go back for.

    Krista – The service we got at similarly one star Kai was far superior to that at Yauatcha

    Helen – I agree the “special” menu is always a risk, but I think a good restaurant should use this as a chance to showcase their cooking. Also the “special” menu did not end up being particularly cheap once service, wine and additional dishes were added.

  8. cheriecity said at 10:51 am on November 3rd, 2009:

    I had the oriental afternoon tea and the cakes were amazing, but the dim sum were overly sweet and pretty uninteresting.
    I’d recommend one oriental tea between two, as you get a lot of desserts and scones, definitely enough to share. The service was ok when I went, as it was quiet, but they’re not overly helpful.


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