It’s a brave move calling a restaurant The Folly. You risk a lot of headlines saying “The Folly of The Folly”. The owners who are also behind city restaurant’s, The Refinery and The Parlour, clearly had no reason to be nervous as The Folly has been a commercial success. It was completely full with a 40 minute wait for tables on the mid week lunch time I ate there.
Roasted beetroot and goats cheese salad
The attraction seems to be the central location right in the heart of the City proper and the slick fit out. The huge restaurant is spread over several levels and includes lots of lovely details like arm chairs to have coffee in lined with fur rugs, fresh pots of herbs on the tables wrapped in copies of The Financial Times and clusters of plant plot lamp shades.
However, The Folly’s appeal does not lie in the food. For a start, the menu is overwhelming listing a ridiculous number of dishes that span every cuisine known to man. Admittedly, the food was not too bad, it is just not particularly good either. It was hard to go to wrong with fresh steamed mussels cooked with cider to add a subtle tang (£8.95). My boss also enjoyed her roasted beetroot and goats cheese salad (£8.25), however things deteriorated with the hot smoked salmon salad (£9.95). It arrived on a ubiquitous board and the mix of spinach, pine nuts and sun dried tomato in the salad was good but the smoked salmon was over cooked and dry.
From the desserts menu the Black forest knickerbocker glory (£6.95) looked spectacular, arriving in a huge cocktail glass, but the crumbled chocolate brownie inside was wooly and flavourless. The dessert was emblamatic of The Folly itself, it looks impressive but is more style over substance. I would be more likely to return for drinks than a meal.
Details: The Folly, 41 Gracechurch street, City of London, EC3V OBT (Ph 0845 468 0102) Tube: Bank
If you liked reading this you might be interested in my review of nearby 40 I 30 at The Gherkin.