Verbier (MTV Boyfriend in Switzerland)

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MTV Boyfriend recently went off on a ski trip without me and so has decided to guest post for Gourmet Chick about all the fantastic snow (and food) I missed:
 
If you want the MTV Boyfriend summary then here its is. Skiing is awesome. Verbier is good. Tartiflette is good. Chez Dany and Cabane Mont Fort are good. Go there and enjoy. But that is not how these blogs work is it so here goes a “proper review”.
 
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Cabane Mont Fort
 
You don’t choose ski resorts for the food. At least I don’t. Altitude, skiable area, vertical range, annual snowfall and possibly après ski (in which St Anton excels) are the common metrics I review each October when my attention turns from beach breaks to locking in a ski holiday. But if a good on mountain feed is your priority, then Verbier is a bloody good option. The mountain has many restaurants but I’m just going to let you know about two on piste lunch spots that you need to tackle.
 
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Planchette valasainne at Chez Dany
Chez Dany
Tucked in a corner of the mountain on the edge of a forest about half way down to the Medran lift, finding the cat track that snakes it’s way through the trees to Chez Dany will be your hardest task. But when you arrive on a sunny day to sit on the deck and look out over the Swiss alps and watch the paragliders float down, it’s hard to imagine a better place. Our group went there twice and I got the tartiflette bagnarde (€29) both times (yep, I am a simple man) with the rest of the group either joining me or sampling the planchette valasianne (€29) or going for the seafood pasta salad (€30) (which got great reviews). No one braved the fondue fromage so early in the day.
 
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Tartiflette at Chez Dany
 
It was my first tartiflette – a mixture of potatoes, cheese, bacon and onions cooked in an oven dish so at the cheese crusts on top – and I loved it. It’s like they made a proper meal out of scalloped potatoes and bacon and while its probably not on the weightwatchers diet plan, it comes with a green salad. The trick must be to get the potatoes soft enough without burning the cheese and Chez Dany seemed to nail it. The planchette valaisanne (a selection of specialities from the Valais Canton) consists of various thin strips of cured meats, sausages and cheeses. Given the size of the platter, you would ideally also order one of the generous green salads and share the two dishes with a mate. Difficult to beat, especially when combining it with great bread – once again proving that I love any restaurant that serves up good bread. Take note London, the bakery skills across the channel are there for the taking. The sun, a few vin chauds and a tart tartine with vanilla ice-cream to finish off – nicely baked through and caramelised on top – led to an early exit from the slopes to the après ski bars. Maybe this was a foodie holiday?
 
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Salad at Chez Dany
 
Essentials
Details: Chez Dany, Clambin, Verbier, 1936, Switzerland (Ph +41 (27) 7712524)
Damage: Pricey
8/10
 
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Cabane Mont Fort
 
Cabane Mont Fort
Perched on the edge of a small cliff, Cabane Mont Fort (run by the Swiss Alpine Club) has some of the most spectacular views you are likely to get from lunch stop – looking back up at Mont Font and across the valley to Mont Blanc, it is hard to believe there could be a more beautiful view. The usual trouble with these places are they are the ones that charge you €20 for a bowl of bad spaghetti bol. This is not one of those places. While it serves the usual fare at the usual high ski prices, the salads, sandwiches and burgers are at the top end of on piste on the go lunch eating (the spaghetti bol and lasagnes also looked great) and the tart tartine is as tasty as they come. The catch for this place is that you need to be able to ski the red “O’Connell” run to get there but we managed to drag a first time skier down to it by the end of the week so it’s not too bad. Cabane Mont Fort definitely trades off it’s view but if you are looking for a step up from the cafeteria food served at many places, then this is the go.
 
Essentials
Details: Cabane Mont Fort, CP 105 – 1936 Verbier, Switzerland (Ph +41 27 778 13 84)
Damage: Reasonable
6/10 (7/10 with the views)
 
Gourmet Travel Tips
  • We stayed at Chalet Belette which sleeps 8. Our lodge was fully catered and cost about £750 each for the week which is on the expensive end of ski week packages but about par for the course at Verbier. It is available through Ski Chalets Verbier.
  • Verbier is a beautiful town and has great off piste skiing when there is fresh snow although the on piste runs aren’t too challenging. Still, a fun place to spend a week with mates.
  • Verbier is a two hour drive from Geneva airport. Our flights were with Swiss Air from London to Verbier and cost around £120 return. Transfers to the mountain with Alpy Bus cost around CHF100 return.
Happy skiing. Oh yeah, and eating.
 
Links
If you liked reading this MTV boyfriend might kick me off this blog! You might be interested in other my reviews of the food at other ski resorts: Morzine in France and St Anton in Austria.

12 comments

  1. £750 for a week! Yup, skiing really isn’t a budget holiday…

  2. MTV boyfriend did a pretty good job, Cara, you better watch your back!! 🙂

  3. Well done MTV boyfriend! I can’t ski but I can do apres ski!

  4. The slopes look absolutely awesome! Nothing like great food after a “long and hard” day of skiing! Real tough work 🙂

  5. I *love* that the tartiflette came with a green salad to even things out, lol.

    Sounds like an excellent ski trip, and if eating is a priority while skiing (though it sounds like it’s not one for MTV Boyfiend), I highly recommend Cortina. : )

  6. I love those sexy curls of cheese! The tartiflette looks awesome too.

  7. Lizzie – That does include all you can eat and drink – I think you might be able to get your moneys worth out of that!

    WineSleuth – I know – too good I think!

    Lorraine – That is my forte as well

    Chopin and my saucepan – It does feel well deserved

    American in London – Cortina sounds like my sort of place

    Helen – It does look good doesn’t it?

  8. Verbier is a great ski but you had to go further afield to get the best of it.

    Lech and Kitzbuhel were both excellent on both counts. Val Disere destroyed the wallet and cost me £10 for 2 filter coffees sat on a fruit box.

  9. ooooh, look at that tartiflette! Cheese-swoon!

  10. Gregory – We have been to Val D’Isere and loved it although you are right it does destroy the wallet

    Su-Lin – I know I am having cheese swoon as well!

  11. WOW. I would so love to hit up Verbier! Went to Chamonix last year and loved it so much… like Lizzie said though, skiing is not usually a budget holiday. Even with a budget airline and accom, there’s still the ski passes, equipment… and apre ski to think about!

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