Wright Bros

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I have whiled away a good few hours of my life in London drinking white wine and slurping oysters at Wright Brothers in Borough Markets.  It’s a lovely way to spend an evening and last year the Wright Brothers extended their hospitality to the good people of Soho as well.  The Soho version of Wright Brothers is a lot bigger than the original but retains a sense of character with grainy black and white photographs of long ancient oyster fisherman alongside wooden bench style seating that creates the atmosphere of a bar rather than a ritzy restaurant.  Shiny white tiles on the walls and low hung bare light bulbs add a bit of a Soho cool to the place.

Carlingford Lough Oysters

MTV boyfriend and I scored a walk in spot at the bar at 8pm on a Thursday night (easier said than done in Soho) and ordered ourselves some delicate rosé from Provence (£6.50) alongside three of the huge and briny Carlingford Lough oysters (£5.50) from Ireland.  My favourites are probably the sweet, small native oysters but it was not the season for them so we ‘made do’ with what Ireland had to offer.

Pork belly with clams (apologies for blurry picture – clearly I was over excited)

Alongside oysters and wine, Wright Brothers menu also features a variety of seafood.  Just to be contrary I ordered one of the only non seafood options, the braised pork belly (£14.50), which was admittedly served with clams.  Clams and pork are a classic combination with the sweet, slippery clams providing a contrast to the rich, salty meat.   The pork was tender and flavoursome although the crackling was flaccid rather than crisp and crunchy.  The chef also forgot to add the advertised salsa verde and it had to be provided in a small dish after the pork had arrived.

Our sides

Off the specials board the fillet of plaice (£15.50) served with pancetta and capers was a generous size and quite delicious in its simplicity.   We teamed our meal with sides of vibrant green beans (£4) and buttered, sweet new potatoes (£3.50).

Plaice fillet

Our meal was good but not startlingly so and I was quite concerned to see one of the chefs licking food from his fingers as he prepared meals (the perils of a fashionable open kitchen).   Not a good look.  While I am glad there is another Wright Brothers, in the future I think I will stick to just enjoying a drink and some oysters rather than ordering the full menu.

Essentials
Details: The Wright Brothers, 13 Kingly St, Soho, W1B 5PW (Ph 020 7434 3611)
Damage: Reasonable.  Our bill came to £55 for two.  I was impressed there was no “discretionary” 12.5% service charge and you are left to decide your own tip.
6/10
Wright Brothers (Soho) on Urbanspoon

9 comments

  1. I love this place for simple bites ( white bait, oysters etc ) and wine. I’ve never tried it for a big meal, but it’s great for grazing and guzzling!

  2. I agree with Greedy Diva – Wright Brothers is perfect for grazing and guzzling – I love it as a pit stop when browsing Borough Market for a plate of prawns and glass of something fizzy. If i want a full-on fishy meal in these parts, I’d rather pop down the road to Applebee’s which is amazing.

  3. On the finger licking issue, did you read Giles Coren in the Sunday Times this weekend? He was scathing about the hygiene standards he saw in the (open) kitchen at Riding House Cafe (which I love – although I know Greedy Diva had a bit of an average experience there).

  4. I think this is the first I know where they don’t add the discretionary service charge. thanks for the tip – will head here for nibbles rather than main meals.

  5. Every time I try to give the soho branch a chance, every time they fail miserably. I prefer Borough-they are more laid back and know their menu. The soho one is so type orientated and the prices for what you get are well. great post!

  6. Gross! Things I have seen in an open kitchen. Chef scratching his butt and someone cleaning the counter – with a FLOOR mop! I also hate seeing chefs sat on the pavement having a cigarette in down time. I imagine them going back into service and wiping hands, tools or whatever on their trousers and transferring pavement scum. I am quite compulsive obsessive with cleaning though!

  7. The perils of an open kitchen. Though, set me up with a few oysters and some Provencal rosé and I’m pretty happy about most things.

  8. I was sold with the oysters Good choice! Though, I would too be concerned with the finger licking…eeew!

  9. Greedy Diva – Yes I think grazing and guzzling is the best approach!

    The Little Loaf – Have you tried the prawn wraps they do at lunch time at Applebees? Amazing.

    London Rob – I did read that article. It did put me off Riding House, but at the same time after they read that article their kitchen is probably the cleanest in London now…

    Kay – I always appreciate restaurants that don’t mandate it – I will generally tip that much anyway I just like to have the choice.

    Campari and Soda – I think I am with you and prefer the Borough branch as well.

    Graphic Foodie – Eeew you are grossing me out with that list… best not to think about it.

    Tori – Yes I just sighed and took another sip of my rosé – that soothed all!

    Adrian – A little disturbing…

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