I have whiled away a good few hours of my life in London drinking white wine and slurping oysters at Wright Brothers in Borough Markets. It’s a lovely way to spend an evening and last year the Wright Brothers extended their hospitality to the good people of Soho as well. The Soho version of Wright Brothers is a lot bigger than the original but retains a sense of character with grainy black and white photographs of long ancient oyster fisherman alongside wooden bench style seating that creates the atmosphere of a bar rather than a ritzy restaurant. Shiny white tiles on the walls and low hung bare light bulbs add a bit of a Soho cool to the place.
|Carlingford Lough Oysters|
MTV boyfriend and I scored a walk in spot at the bar at 8pm on a Thursday night (easier said than done in Soho) and ordered ourselves some delicate rosé from Provence (£6.50) alongside three of the huge and briny Carlingford Lough oysters (£5.50) from Ireland. My favourites are probably the sweet, small native oysters but it was not the season for them so we ‘made do’ with what Ireland had to offer.
|Pork belly with clams (apologies for blurry picture – clearly I was over excited)|
Alongside oysters and wine, Wright Brothers menu also features a variety of seafood. Just to be contrary I ordered one of the only non seafood options, the braised pork belly (£14.50), which was admittedly served with clams. Clams and pork are a classic combination with the sweet, slippery clams providing a contrast to the rich, salty meat. The pork was tender and flavoursome although the crackling was flaccid rather than crisp and crunchy. The chef also forgot to add the advertised salsa verde and it had to be provided in a small dish after the pork had arrived.
Off the specials board the fillet of plaice (£15.50) served with pancetta and capers was a generous size and quite delicious in its simplicity. We teamed our meal with sides of vibrant green beans (£4) and buttered, sweet new potatoes (£3.50).
Our meal was good but not startlingly so and I was quite concerned to see one of the chefs licking food from his fingers as he prepared meals (the perils of a fashionable open kitchen). Not a good look. While I am glad there is another Wright Brothers, in the future I think I will stick to just enjoying a drink and some oysters rather than ordering the full menu.
Details: The Wright Brothers, 13 Kingly St, Soho, W1B 5PW (Ph 020 7434 3611)
Damage: Reasonable. Our bill came to £55 for two. I was impressed there was no “discretionary” 12.5% service charge and you are left to decide your own tip.
Category: Restaurants - Seafood, W1