The Northall is housed in the corner of the hotel in a huge high ceilinged room which looks out over the Thames. The setting is opulent and spectacular but with only a few other diners it did feel strangely sterile.
The menu focuses on traditional British dishes listing ingredients like potted shrimps, cockles and razor clams alongside details of each supplier. My friend Kate and I decided to start with two classics, the potted shrimps (£12) and dressed crab (£15). The potted shrimps were a bit disappointing as they were not served in a pot and were also lacking the lashings of butter which are characteristic of the dish. The dressed crab was a better option with lots of flakes of the tender, sweet white crab meat alongside a rich homemade mayonnaise.
|Lamb short loin chops|
Onto the main dishes, the serving sizes were absolutely enormous. It is probably best to order one main to share they are so big or else go with a very, very big appetite. Lamb short loin chops (£24) were almost comedy sized but despite the huge amount of meat, they were perfectly cooked to a sweet pink state with a great char to the fat.
Similarly, the fillet of lemon sole (£28) actually comprised two large fillets both accompanied by steamed razor clams and a light tomato and basil sauce. The fillets were simply cooked which was perfect as it let the quality of the seafood shine through. We finished with a classic pavlova to share, crisp but fluffy and dripping with a rich berry sauce.
There are no fireworks at the Northall but the food is good and the setting impressive. All it needs is a little soul and some customers. Since Kate and I both directed our cab drivers to the restaurant, at least two of London’s black cabs now know where The Corinthia and The Northall are. It’s a start I suppose.
Details: The Northall, The Corinthia, Whitehall Place, London SW1A 2BD, (Ph +44 (0)20 7321 3100) Tube – Embankment