I suppose you may also be interested in the fact Texture just retained its Michelin star, that it has 110 different champagnes on offer on the wine list and that it is a rather swanky, “special occasion” sort of place. The restaurant feels quite formal which is slightly at odds with the playful nature of the food on offer. It is attached to a (horrors) Best Western hotel after all and has the high ceilings, plush finishes and air of anonymity which seems to go hand in hand with being a hotel restaurant.
However, the menu does not play it safe at all. The food on offer is quirky and inventive with influences from chef Agnar Sverrisson’s Icelandic background in there along with a focus on British and seasonal ingredients.
|The Anjou quail- spot the bacon popcorn in there|
The bacon popcorn featured again in a starter of delicately deboned Anjou quail (£16) which was served with the popcorn alongside chargrilled sweetcorn, shallots and a drizzling of red wine essence. Native lobster (£22.50) was sweet, fresh and enlivened with hints of ginger and lemon.
At times the food hit every note perfectly, Welsh lamb (£31.50) was pink and tender and teamed with some “very Noma” wild Icelandic herbs. Even more compelling was the suckling pig (£29.50) comprising tender slow cooked cheek alongside a fatty, crisp topped belly with peach for sweetness and cabbage to mop up the juices.
However, occasionally there was an overabundance of ideas with one dessert featuring a uniquely unpleasant combination of white chocolate mousse, dill and cucumber in one concoction. A better option was the almond cake which came served in its own tiny tagine and was dotted with fresh cherries. We also loved the sweet but sophisticated suggested dessert wine of Noble One 1007 Botrytis Semillon from De Bortoli in Australia (£15.50 a glass).
Despite the occasional misfires Sverrisson delivers accomplished cooking finding just the right balance between texture and taste. As for the bacon popcorn… it had me at hello.
Details: Texture, 34 Portman Street, Marylebone, W1H 7BY (Ph 020 7224 0028) Tube: Marble Arch
Damage: Budget Breaking
Category: Michelin Star, Restaurants - European, W1