If a celebrity comes to Melbourne, chances are they stay at the Park Hyatt. Last time I was visiting a friend who was staying there Lady GaGa was also in residence. So when I was invited to review Radii Restaurant I was ready to keep my eyes peeled for celebrity spotting.
The restaurant looks like it is caught in a 1980’s time warp – all multi level and shiny with huge columns. Thankfully though the food is very much 2013.
Classics like carpaccio of beef ($26) are well executed with top quality produce but picking some of the more unusual sounding dishes on the menu is where you get rewarded. The crustacean lasagna ($29) is an ethereal combination of fresh tiger prawns, supple pasta and a velvety velouté.
The whole roasted baby chicken ($35) also impressed with juicy meat and an intense smokiness from the use of black garlic in the dish. However there were some misfires as well. The blue eye cod ($39) was spankingly fresh but the fish was overwhelmed by the accompanying bean and chorizo cassoulet. The sweet end of the meal also delivered with a dessert plate allowing me to fulfil the ultimate fantasy of trying every dessert on the menu. My pick was the pistachio creme brulée with its burnished caramlised top and smooth, creamy filling.
Although the decor at Radii is dated and the restaurant can lack atmosphere the food on offer here is top notch. Service is very attentive and in particular Radii’s sommelier shines with some really interesting wine selections including the delicate Oakridge 2012 “Over the Shoulder” chardonnay.
Gourmet Chick was invited to review Radii.
Details: Radii, The Park Hyatt, 1 Parliament Place, Melbourne CBD, (Ph 03 9224 1221)
Damage: Budget breaking. But on this occasion I did not pay.