Taxi Kitchen gets a revamp

Salt and pepper quail

Cheaper and more casual is what diners want apparently.  That’s why PM24 in the city has closed to be replaced by Lucy Liu’s kitchen and bar and now Taxi Dining Room has been reinvented as Taxi Kitchen.  I was invited to visit to check out the changes.  The white tablecloths are out and more bar style seating is in but the glittering views over Federation square, Flinders street station and the Yarra remain.

TAXI (1)

The Japanese influence on the food and the sushi options have also gone but that doesn’t mean the food at Taxi Kitchen isn’t interesting and adventurous.  Take the starter of “scorched oysters” served on salt and vinegar pork crackle ($3.50 each). Hot, salty and crunchy they were addictively good.   

Sake washed tuna at Taxi Kitchen
Sake washed tuna at Taxi Kitchen

Other highlights included the thinly sliced poached veal ($18) and vibrant red tuna marinated in sake ($22) and served with a tangy but creamy kohlrabi remoulade.  

Bread at Taxi Kitchen and inside the restaurant
Bread at Taxi Kitchen and inside the restaurant

The must order dish is the spicy salt and pepper quail ($23).  It’s great drinking food and the perfect way to eat quail which is often annoyingly fiddly.  I also loved the crispy skin cod ($34) which was served with a creamy, rich risotto which was a perfect foil to the fish.  

Salt and pepper quail
Salt and pepper quail at Taxi Kitchen

I wasn’t as impressed with the crispy confit duck ($36) which lacked impact and didn’t really work well with the accompanying beetroot.  Of the desserts the frozen lemon meringue pie ($13) was probably the most visually spectacular but it could have done with more meringue.  The passion fruit souffle ($15) won the taste test – a tangy fluffy cloud of eggy sweetness.

Cod at Taxi Kitchen
Cod at Taxi Kitchen

Service was spot on with the same team staying on from Taxi.  Our waiter Adrian charmed us throughout dinner and Taxi Kitchen’s sommelier Aaron recommended a great bottle of shiraz, the Bellarmine Pemberton 2010.  Spicy but not too heavy, Aaron described it as “starting off masculine and becoming more feminine”.  

Frozen lemon meringue pie at Taxi Kitchen
Frozen lemon meringue pie at Taxi Kitchen

Taxi hasn’t lost any of its wow with its revamp.  But it is worth bearing in mind, although prices are cheaper than they were, Taxi is certainly not a “cheap” restaurant.  You can still cause some serious damage to your wallet here.  

Gourmet Chick was invited to review Taxi Kitchen. 

Essentials
Details: Taxi Kitchen, Transport Hotel, Federation Square, Melbourne (Ph +61 3 9654 8808).
Damage: Pricey. But on this occasion I did not pay.  
8/10

Taxi Kitchen on Urbanspoon

 

 

2 comments

  1. Good to see Taxi has “reinvented” itself. It used to be a favourite and then lost its way the last couple of years. Worth a revisit.

  2. Thanks Gourmet Chick – 12 or so months on and Taxi Kitchen is sill hitting the mark with amazing flavours and sharp service. Date Night was a success starting with appetisers of the oyster, scallop and prawns. Followed by a perfectly cooked med rare eye fillet and a most generous serving of duck that we will share next visit. The Asian inspired side of greens was delectable. Just ‘had to’ pop down the brûlée after a neighbouring table devoured theirs. Accompanied by a lip smacking good By Farr Pinot Noir. We will return!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *