It’s reaching breaking point in Fitzroy. Former denizens of the suburb are now homeless having been turfed out to make room for yet another cafe. Just when you thought Fitzroy could not take one more place serving up all day breakfasts and single origin coffee, Archie’s All Day opened. The owners obviously know more about Fitzroy’s capacity for brunches, lunches and dinners than me because even though its right next door to the longstanding De Clieu cafe, Archie’s All Day has been rammed ever since it opened its doors two weeks ago.
I’ve visited twice now at decidedly off peak times but weekend queues are apparently already a thing. Of course everyone loves to try something new but I think the reason Archie’s All Day has diners flocking like chips to a seagull is a menu which goes beyond the standard offerings.
Yes there is smashed avocado with Meredith goats cheese on there, but move right along because you can make that yourself at home with only a toaster. Instead try the signature “dirty eggs” ($17.50) which may just be the perfect hangover food given they incorporate the genius ingredient of tater tots. You heard me right, those tiny deep fried little potato bites you may have eaten as a child are now reinvented as a hipster menu item. All it takes is a drizzle of melted cheese and accompaniments of fried eggs, black beans and a slick of chipolote mayo. Sign me up to the tater tot appreciation society right now.
For my money though the best dish on the breakfast menu is the poached eggs with pumpkin puree and polenta ($17). It’s a bit of a tounge twister to order but what you get are the most delicious crispy polenta fries on top of dollops of sweet pumpkin puree. A sprinkle of dukkah adds some texture, Meredith goats feta adds tang and the oozing yolk of the poached eggs acts as a great sauce. As the name, Archie’s All Day suggests, this is a cafe which doesn’t just to confine itself to breakfast with burgers and booze on offer until late at night. Looks like I need a third visit just to check that out.
The coffee lives up to the food (or should it be the other way round as cafes live and die in Fitzroy on their coffee) with the barista serving up Proud Mary from a serious looking matte black Synesso Sabre machine. A monochrome black and white interior is livened up with flashes of aqua throughout the cafe from the crockery to the hanging baskets adding some pops of colour. Some street side tables and a small little courtyard out the back festooned with party lights offers some outdoor dining options. Service is quite lovely and thankfully attitude free. Let that be a lesson to all Fitzroy cafes.
Details: Archie’s All Day, 189 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy (03) 9417 0066
Kids: Not particularly child friendly. There are no high chairs, kids menu items or change facilities. But staff told me they are planning on getting high chairs.