The Bull and Last

The. Best. Chips. In. London. Indeed, the chips at the Bull and Last are so good that you are reduced to talking in point form. The secret is the triple cooking. The chips are parboiled, then roughed up so that they can be as crispy as possible, deep fried, roughed up some more and then fried again. The result is chips that are light and fluffy inside, crunchy on the outside and incredibly moreish.


MTV boyfriend and I headed to the Bull and Last in Kentish town for Pete and Thea’s engagement drinks. It’s a cosy pub with a log fire in one corner and various stuffed animals on the walls. The sort of place you would love to have as your local, especially since it’s Gile Coren’s local as well. There was no sign of Giles but there was a menu packed with traditional English pub classics that indicated a pub with a real passion for food.

Feeling slightly seedy I could not go past the beer battered haddock which was served with small dishes of mushy peas and tartare along with the famous chips (pictured). It was the perfect hangover cure. Geoff’s roast chicken with olive oil mash, leeks, garlic and watercress looked equally good but did suffer from not coming with the chips. When your chips are that good, you should really serve them with every dish. So here’s to engagements and triple cooked chips.

Details: 168 Highgate road, Kentish Town, NW51QS (Ph 020 7267 3641)

Damage: Reasonable


Bull & Last on Urbanspoon

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