The Lugger – Gourmet Chick in Cornwall

Visiting The Lugger hotel in Cornwall feels like you have stumbled across a hidden secret. Tucked away in the sleepy village of Portloe you reach The Lugger down a series of tiny, narrow roads until you almost drive into the sea. In the village itself it feels like time has stood still with whitewashed houses and a pile of lobster pots sitting by the road in readiness for tomorrows catch. The hotel itself is located in a series of these cottages, blending in perfectly to its surroundings.

View of Portloe -The Lugger is the main building in the middle, next to the shore
The rooms are on the small side but simply and elegantly decorated in shades of cream. MTV boyfriend and I enjoyed the quality bed linens, the huge and comfortable bed and the lovely terrace which was accessible by French doors from the room. The whole place has a feel of understated luxury about it. It was only a short walk from our room to the main house which had a cosy sitting room with low, beamed ceilings and a restaurant area for meals. The manager told us that in winter time some guests settle in by the fire in the sitting room and just don’t leave for the day. It’s that sort of place.
Lobster traps on the shore
The Lugger offers dinner, bed and breakfast deals which are worth going for as it is pretty isolated so there are not really any other options nearby. Plus it means you don’t have to worry about leaving the cosy confines of the hotel. The menu is unsurprisingly big on seafood. To begin, three plump, juicy pan fried scallops were served with a light tan from then pan teamed with chorizo. A plate of six oysters on ice had a slight nutty flavour in addition to their salty, briny taste.
A large bowl of steaming hot seafood stew was packed with goodies including chunks of salmon, mussels, prawns, and lots of vegetables in a rich tomato based sauce. Fillet of lamb was great wintery fare, paired with sweet lingonberries and a rich sauce. It didn’t all fall down at dessert either with caramalised lemon tart, burnished on top and somewhat unecessarily doused with icing sugar. A simple apple crumble was served upturned with the perfect combination of crunch from the crumble and sweet softness from the cooked apples.
Our room at The Lugger
Breakfast at The Lugger offers a buffet style selection of fruits, cereals and pastries and then a cooked to order choice of hot breakfasts. The eggs benedict came with excellent, thick ham and a smooth creamy hollondaise sauce. Boiled eggs were cooked to just the right amount of runniness and were served with a pyramid of toasted soldiers. However, I was not as impressed with the dinky jams and commercial bakery style toast.
The Lugger is a lovely romantic place to escape too if you are looking for some down time and can cope with the slightly slow and isolated pace of life in Portloe. In fact, a little slowness and solitude might be exactly what you need.
Scallops on chorizo
Gourmet Chick was a guest of The Lugger
Gourmet Travel
  • We drove from London which takes between 4 -6 hours but you can catch the train to St Austell or fly to Newquay.
  • Portloe itself is tiny but there are a few nice cliff top walks which you can set off on directly from the hotel and if you get up early you can see the fisherman haul in their catch.IMG_7585
Seafood stew
Details: The Lugger, Portloe, Cornwall, England TR2 5RD (Ph 01872 501 322)
Damage: Pricey. Rooms cost from around £180 to £250 at this time of year for a dinner, bed and breakfast deal. Prices are more expensive in summer.
Eggs Benedict at The Lugger
If you liked reading this you might be interested in my review of The Scarlet also in Cornwall or for seafood in London try the Maida Vale, canalside restaurant The Summerhouse.


  1. I’d really love to visit Cornwall one of these days, there’s so many great foodie places there. The Lugger looks like a lovely place.
    *kisses* HH

  2. Just back from a weekend in Cornwall, and I’m already planning my return. Beautiful place and so many great sources of excellent fresh, local food.

  3. Ooh I love Cornwall!
    But to be honest, there are so many brilliant rooms attached to pubs (We always pick something from a brilliant book called Room at the Inn – great for excellent pubs to eat & sleep at) all over England, I’d be more likely to pick one of them – bit nicer on the wallet too!

  4. Cornwall sounds so lovely and all these hotels look amazing – little hidden secrets! We’re going to Cornwall in a couple of weeks but only for the weekend… wish I had more time off!

  5. Gosh all of these posts make me want to visit Cornwall so much now!

  6. I agree with all the above – I’ve never been to Cornwall and would love go, especially after reading this. The Lugger looks like a gorgeous play to stay and the food looks amazing!

  7. Heavenly Housewife – Yes a foodies dream I think

    Greedy Diva – great to hear you had a lovely trip

    LexEat – I agree I do love to stay in a pub as well when travelling (I think we have the same book actually!). So nice to roll upstairs after dinner to bed…

    Catty – I only had a weekend plus a half day, it is a long drive just for a weekend from London – might be worth trying to tack an extra day on?

    Lorraine – I imagine it would be a long trip for you!

    Amy – It is such a beautiful part of the world

  8. I’ve been to Cornwall loads but I don’t know Portloe. It looks exactly like Polperro though. Last time I went to Cornwall I stayed in a bedroom just as narrow as that and I was six months pregnant at the time so it was a bit of a squeeze!!

  9. Sarah – I can imagine the bedrooms were on the small size!

  10. We ate at the Ship in Portlooe and really enjoyed the old fashioned, unpretentious surroundings. And excellent plaice. But it was The Lugger that caught our imagination. Now after your write up I’m even more keen to visit.

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