I’ll go anywhere in search of a good dumpling. Even Glenferrie road in Hawthorn, a strip I haven’t been back to since I used to go to Toss the Boss at Cheers (don’t ask). Now legendary Box Hill dumpling house, Dumpling King, has opened up on Glenferrie road there’s reason to visit.
The restaurant is small and no frills. Come in pairs or small groups, there’s no room for the big extended family gatherings typical of yum cha restaurants. But, importantly, there is a chef (complete with face mask) hand making dumplings at the front of the kitchen.
Don’t go to Dumpling King for the service, we spent most of our time chasing down our waiter. At best you could say service is disinterested, at worst it’s down right rude. Don’t go for the san choi bao ($8.80 for 2) either, it’s watery and tasteless. But the dumplings are the business and the queue outside starts to make sense.
The pork buns ($4.80 for 3) are fluffy pillows with a rich, gutsy filling. Pan fried fish and chive dumplings ($9) are well seasoned with lots of flavour.
The xiao long bao are not as delicate and perfectly pleated as HuTong’s but they are light as fairy floss. They do deliver when it comes to that great burst of soupy goodness when you bite in. Even on Glenferrie Road you can find a little slice of dumpling heaven.